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Tang Dynasty唐朝Military Power军事力量The Sui had instituted an army of professional soldiers known as Fubing, a basis for a standing army that was adopted by the Tang.隋朝创立了一专业的军队,称为府兵,他们是唐朝建立的常备军的基础。Military service was rotated between defence of the national frontiers and duty in the capital.兵役在国境防卫和都城执勤间往复。Using this army together with auxiliaries recruited from ethnic groups通过这军队以及来自少数民族的辅助军,the Tang rulers pushed back invaders and so extended their territorial control beyond China proper.大唐皇帝击退了侵略者,拓展了中国本土控制的疆域。At its peak of power, the Tang controlled large parts of central Asia all the way into Iran as well as Manchuria and most of the Korean peninsula.在其权力达到顶峰之时,唐朝控制了中亚的大部分地区,领土延伸至伊朗和满洲以及韩国半岛的大部分区域。The Tang became the greatest power in Asia.大唐成为了亚洲最强盛的国家。 /201511/405226The Civil Aviation Administration of China has pledged to gradually loosen control over air carriers#39; ticket prices and administrative charges.中国民用航空总局近日表示,将逐步放开机票价格及行政性收费。The administration recently published a set of guidelines that aim to deepen the reform of China#39;s civil aviation industry. The guidelines vow to let the market, rather than the government, play a decisive role in the sector.总局最近公布了一系列指导方针,旨在深化中国民航业的改革。这些指导方针将会推行市场而不是政府决定价格的机制。Enterprises in the industry will have more freedom to determine charges for their services or products, and consumers will enjoy more options when they use air transportation, the administration said.航空总局表示,该行业中的部分企业将获得更多的自由,以规定他们的务或产品费用。消费者在利用航空运输时也会有更多的选择。Beginning next year, airlines will be allowed to determine the ticket prices for routes that the government defines as having competition among carriers. Starting in 2020, they will be allowed to decide the prices for all routes.2017年起,政府定义的已经形成竞争的国内航线将会允许航空公司自主定价。2020年起,国内所有航线客运票价将由航空公司自主制定。Currently, carriers can only determine the lowest price for their domestic flights. The highest price for such flights and prices for international services are controlled by the government.目前,航空公司仅有权决定其国内航线的最低票价,国内航线的最高票价以及国际航线票价需执行政府指导价。The move is the latest step taken by the CAAC as part of its efforts to ;marketize; the civil aviation sector.这项举措是由民航总局努力实现民航部门“市场化”的最新动作。 /201601/422340“Singles Day”–held annually on Nov 11–is a popular day for college students to declare their love to someone they’ve had a crush on. But this year, colleges seem to be buzzing with romance a bit earlier than usual.每年的11月11日被称为“光棍节”,大学生们流行在这一天向爱慕的对象表白。不过今年的“光棍节”韵事来得比往年早些。An article entitled “The Protocol for Love Confessions on Singles Day” (《光棍节表白条例》) was posted online last week. The protocol is targeted at several universities, and it includes 10 items that either give advice or prohibit certain behaviors to prevent “Singles Day” activities from getting out of hand.上周一篇名为《光棍节表白条例》的文章出现在网上。该条例冠以几所大学的名义,列出了10条“光棍节”表白活动的建议和严禁事项。As convincing as the article was, the post was soon found to be a hoax.这篇颇有说力的条例事后被明为一场恶作剧。Those universities have issued official declarations denying their involvement. But the fact that the article was thousands of times in one day says how popular the occasion is.“躺”的大学已经发布官方声明,否认发布了该条信息。不过这篇文章在一天之内就获得了数千次的点击量,说明表白是个热门话题。“The prevalence of campus love confessions is a sign that our culture is becoming more open and tolerant, and that, in turn, provides a platform where students can freely act out their ideas,” commented the Chongqing Economic Times.《重庆商报》道:“校园表白的盛行表明我们的文化更加开放和宽容了,也为学生提供了将心动变为行动的平台。”That said, proclamations of love should be done with certain ground rules in mind.即便如此,表白也应该遵守一定的基本准则。“The protocol actually makes sense in a way,” said Zhao Caixia, 21, at Yichun University, Jiangxi. “As much as I admire the courage of students who confess their love, it’s important that the activity doesn’t disturb other people’s lives.”江西宜春学院21岁的大学生赵霞说:“某种程度上讲,表白条例确实有一定的道理。”“我很佩那些有勇气表白的人,不过重要的一点是,表白不要影响到他人。”The fake protocol overlooks the fact that declarations of love don’t have to be public at all. Creating a big scene is not the only method to show your affection.假表白条例忽视了一个事实——那就是,表白并不一定要公开。大张旗鼓地表白并不是表达爱意的唯一方式。A freshman at Anhui University, who prefers to be known by his pseudonym “Desolate Rain”, took a low-key approach, and it worked just as well.安徽大学一名化名为“荒凉的雨”的大一新生就用低调的方法表白成功。He started by becoming friends with the girl and taking care of her in a subtle but thoughtful way. After they knew each other well enough and developed a healthy friendship, he picked the right moment to let her know his feelings.他和女友从朋友做起,细心、体贴地照顾她。当他们互相了解并发展出健康的友谊后,他选择恰当的时机向女孩表明了自己的心迹。“Personally, I think this approach is more sincere and avoids giving the impression of being hasty,” he said. “Being friends with each other first gives relationships a solid foundation. Otherwise it can easily collapse even if the confession goes well.”“我个人认为这种方式更真诚,避免给人轻率的印象,”他说。“成为朋友是发展恋情的坚实基础。否则,就算表白成功,感情也容易破裂。” /201511/409095Dear Max,亲爱的麦柯斯,Your mother and I don#39;t yet have the words to describe the hope you give us for the future. Your new life is full of promise, and we hope you will be happy and healthy so you can explore it fully. You#39;ve aly given us a reason to reflect on the world we hope you live in.你妈妈和我还找不到词汇来描述你给我们带来的对未来的期望。你的新生活充满了潜能,我们愿你能健康快乐,以让你充分地去探索研究。你已经给了我们一个理由去反思我们希望你生活的那个世界。Like all parents, we want you to grow up in a world better than ours today.像所有的父母一样,我们想要你长大后的世界比我们今天更好。While headlines often focus on what#39;s wrong, in many ways the world is getting better. Health is improving. Poverty is shrinking. Knowledge is growing. People are connecting. Technological progress in every field means your life should be dramatically better than ours today.新闻总是会报道哪里出了问题,但在好多方面这个世界正变得越来越好。健康状况在改善、贫困人群在减少、大家的知识水平在增加,人们彼此的联系越来越紧密。技术在各个方面的进步意味着你们这一代的生活会比我们现在有巨大的变化。We will do our part to make this happen, not only because we love you, but also because we have a moral responsibility to all children in the next generation.我们会尽全力让这种变化发生,不仅仅是因为我们爱你,更是因为我们有责任去爱护下一代所有的孩子。We believe all lives have equal value, and that includes the many more people who will live in future generations than live today. Our society has an obligation to invest now to improve the lives of all those coming into this world, not just those aly here.我们相信所有的生命都有同等的价值,这里面包括生活在未来和现在的所有人。我们的社会有义务去为所有即将来到这个世界的生命去投资,而不是仅仅关注眼前和当下。Today, most people die from five things -- heart disease, cancer, stroke, neurodegenerative and infectious diseases -- and we can make faster progress on these and other problems.当下,人们主要死于五种情况——心脏病、癌症、中风、神经退行性和传染性疾病——我们能做的就是尽快在这些方面取得进展去解决问题。Once we recognize that your generation and your children#39;s generation may not have to suffer from disease, we collectively have a responsibility to tilt our investments a bit more towards the future to make this reality. Your mother and I want to do our part.当我们想到你们这一代和你的孩子们的一代如果可以不再受到这些疾病的困扰,我们就觉得我们有义务去投资让这种假设在未来变成现实。你的妈妈和我都想尽我们自己的力量。Curing disease will take time. Over short periods of five or ten years, it may not seem like we#39;re making much of a difference. But over the long term, seeds planted now will grow, and one day, you or your children will see what we can only imagine: a world without suffering from disease.疾病的治疗需要时间。短期比如五年或十年可能都看不出任何差别,但是从长远来看,种子播下去就会生长,终有一天,你或者你的孩子们会看到一个没有疾病的世界,而我们却只能想象那一天的到来了。There are so many opportunities just like this. If society focuses more of its energy on these great challenges, we will leave your generation a much better world.有好多机会就是这像是这样。如果社会能够把精力关注到这些伟大的挑战上,那么我们将会给你们这一代人留下一个更美好的世界。Our hopes for your generation focus on two ideas: advancing human potential and promoting equality.我们希望你们这一代关注两个概念:推进人类潜能和促进平等。Advancing human potential is about pushing the boundaries on how great a human life can be.挖掘人类潜能就是开发人类所能到达的极限去发现一个人到底有多大的能耐。Promoting equality is about making sure everyone has access to these opportunities -- regardless of the nation, families or circumstances they are born into.推进平等就是要确保每一个人都有平等接近机会的权利,无论在什么样的国家、家庭和情况下出生。Our society must do this not only for justice or charity, but for the greatness of human progress.我们的社会必须这样做不仅是为了正义或慈善,而是为了伟大的人类进步。Today your mother and I are committing to spend our lives doing our small part to help solve these challenges. I will continue to serve as Facebook#39;s CEO for many, many years to come, but these issues are too important to wait until you or we are older to begin this work. By starting at a young age, we hope to see compounding benefits throughout our lives.今天,你妈妈和我将用一生的时间去帮助解决这些挑战,以作出自己的小小贡献。我仍将担任Facebook的CEO,担任很久,但是这些问题太重要了,我们不能等到你更大了,或者我们更老了才去解决它们。我们希望早早地开始,在有生之年就看到成果。As you begin the next generation of the Chan Zuckerberg family, we also begin the Chan Zuckerberg Initiative to join people across the world to advance human potential and promote equality for all children in the next generation. Our initial areas of focus will be personalized learning, curing disease, connecting people and building strong communities.当你在作为陈-扎克伯格家的下一代开始长大时,我们也开始了一个名为陈-扎克伯格的项目,与全世界的人一起努力,为下一代所有的孩子们,开发人类潜能并促进平等。在起步之初,我们将把重心放在个性化学习、疾病治疗、互联网连接,以及社区的发展上。We will give 99% of our Facebook shares -- currently about billion -- during our lives to advance this mission. We know this is a small contribution compared to all the resources and talents of those aly working on these issues. But we want to do what we can, working alongside many others.我们将捐出所持有的Facebook 99%的股份——目前市值约450亿美元——在我们的有生之年去促进这一使命的完成。我们知道,比起已经在这个领域投入的资源和人力相比,这只是很小的贡献,但是我们想尽我们所能,与其他人一起努力。As we become parents and enter this next chapter of our lives, we want to share our deep appreciation for everyone who makes this possible.当我们为人父母,开启我们人生新篇章的时候,我们想要分享我们对所有让这个奇迹成为的可能的人们的感恩之情。We can do this work only because we have a strong global community behind us. Building Facebook has created resources to improve the world for the next generation. Every member of the Facebook community is playing a part in this work.我们之所以做这项工作,是因为在我们身后有一个强有力的全球社区。创建Facebook使我们为下一代改善世界拥有了资源,Facebook社区的每一个成员都在发挥作用。We can make progress towards these opportunities only by standing on the shoulders of experts -- our mentors, partners and many incredible people whose contributions built these fields.我们之所以能朝着这些机会进步,是因为我们站在专家的肩膀上——我们的导师、伴侣,以及许许多多在这一领域做出贡献的了不起的人。And we can only focus on serving this community and this mission because we are surrounded by loving family, supportive friends and amazing colleagues. We hope you will have such deep and inspiring relationships in your life too.我们之所以能务于这个社区和这一使命,是因为我们周围有相亲相爱的家人、互相持的朋友、特别棒的同事。我们希望你的人生中也有这样深刻和鼓舞人心的关系。Max, we love you and feel a great responsibility to leave the world a better place for you and all children. We wish you a life filled with the same love, hope and joy you give us. We can#39;t wait to see what you bring to this world.麦柯斯,我们爱你,我们觉得为你和所有的孩子们建立一个更好的世界是我们的责任。我们祝愿你的一生都充满了爱、希望、欢乐,就像你带给我们的那样。我们已等不及想要看到你会给世界带来什么。Love, Mom and Dad爱你的,妈妈和爸爸 /201512/413591

Guo Shoujing (1231~1316) was a Chinese astronomer, engineer, and mathematician. 郭守敬(1231~1316),天文学家、数学家。His grandfather was Guo Yang, a noted scholar.其祖父郭荣是著名学者。By the age of fourteen Guo Shoujing designed a water clock and at sixteen he was studying mathematics.14岁郭守敬发明了水钟,16岁学习数学,改进了日晷和圭表。在忽必烈的天文台工作,他编制了《授时历》,计算出每年有365.2425天。He worked on improving the Chinese gnomon and worked at Kublai Khan#39;s observatory. There he formulated the Shoushi calendar and calculated the year to be 365. 2425 days. 这与《格利高里历》是一样的,但是早了将近300年。This is the Same as the Gregorian calendar, but almost three centuries earlier.接下来的364年用的都是《授时历》。It would be used for the next 364 years.郭守敬还做了与球面三角有关的工作。He also did work relating to spherical trigonometry.郭守敬是中国古代著名的水利工程师和数学家。He is a famous ancient Chinese hydraulic engineer and mathematician.郭守敬改进了历法,算出每年有365天5小时36分11秒,与精确值只错了50秒。He improved the calendar and was off by only 50 seconds. He calculated a year was 365 days 5 hours 36 minutes and 11 seconds.尽管郭守敬在历法上做出很大的成绩,但是他却认为圆周率是3,而不像祖冲之的3.14159265和张衡的3. 142那么精确。Although he did a great deal on the modern calendar, he suggested pi 3, unlike Zu Chongzhi#39;s 3. 14159265 and Zhang Heng#39;s 3. 142. In engineering he is best known for constructing the artificial Kunming Lake in Beijing as a reservoir and part of a new waterway for grain transport.在工程学上,郭守敬最著名的是修建了北京昆明湖,用作水库和运粮水路的一部分。Asteroid 2012 Guo Shou-Jing was named after him.编号为2012号小行星被命名为“郭守敬星”。 /201603/431208

It was about five miles from the Kudesa Homestay guesthouse in Keh village to the Gianyar Night Market, on the Indonesian island of Bali. So I asked my host, Mangku, whether I could make it on the bike he had available for rent. No problem, he said, he knew people who do it all the time.在印度尼西亚的海岛巴厘岛上,从位于克美奴(Keh)村庄的库德萨民宿(Kudesa Homestay)到吉安雅夜市(Gianyar Night Market)的距离,仅有5英里。于是我问我的房东——大家都叫他“师傅”(Mangku)——我能不能骑辆他提供租借的车去那里。他说没问题,他认识很多人一直都是这么去的。It was a miscommunication. I was asking about the bicycle, but he meant the motorbike, which made sense since motorcycles and scooters are the main form of transportation on Bali, the fourth, final, and by far most touristy stop on my Indonesia tour.他误解了我的意思。我问的是自行车,而他说的则是托车。这并不奇怪,重型机车和小绵羊本来就是巴厘岛上最常用的交通工具。在我此次的印尼之旅中,巴厘岛是第四站和最后一站,也是迄今为止我去过的一处普通游客最常去的地方。Alas, I don’t know how to ride them. Still, he reluctantly let me take the tough-looking red hybrid bicycle, warning me to stay out of the heavy traffic. I took his instructions literally, sticking just off the road in what I would call the anti-bike lane.唉,我根本不会骑托车啊。但他还是很不情愿地让我牵出了那辆造型粗犷的红色混合自行车,告诫我与繁忙的车流保持距离。我严格地执行了他的指示,始终远离干道,只在在我看来根本就不不适合自行车行驶的小巷里穿行。That meant bouncing over pebbly dirt shoulders and narrow sidewalks often blocked by parked cars and market stalls, edging onto the road only when there was a lull in the nearly constant scooter buzz.这意味着我要不断地跃过卵石与泥土砌成的路肩,还有总被停放车辆与集市小摊阻塞的狭窄人行道,只有在几乎不绝于耳的托车轰鸣声偶有间歇时,才能缓缓地驶上路面。It was worth it, for two reasons. First, it gave me easy access to the unadulterated Balinese food sold at market stalls — a spicy jumble of mixed vegetables called serombotan, a luscious goat satay (no beef, since the vast majority of Bali, unlike the rest of Indonesia, is Hindu).这么做还是值得的,原因有两点。首先,这让我很方便地在集市小摊上买到了地道的巴厘岛食物——辣味杂蔬serombotan,还有味道醇美的山羊肉沙爹(这里没有牛肉沙爹,因为和印尼的其他地方不一样,巴厘岛的大部分人都是印度教徒)。And, on the way back, drenched in sweat, I stopped to see a group of men scorching the hair off two slaughtered pigs and ended up with an invitation to spend the festival of Galungan with a new friend.而且,在回来的路上,浑身被汗浸透的我,中途还停了下来,观看一群男人烧掉两头宰杀的肉猪身上的鬃毛,并在最后收到了一位新朋友的邀请,与他一同欢度加隆安节(Galungan)。Three days and four nights is a ridiculously short stay for one’s first time on Bali. Ideally, I knew, getting away from the tourist crowd meant heading away from southern Bali’s two tourist epicenters: Kuta, which has a reputation as a depraved Cancun for young Australians; and Ubud, for those seeking the more spiritual Bali described in Elizabeth Gilbert’s “Eat, Pray, Love” without straying too far from a Starbucks.三天四夜的旅程,对于首次巴厘岛之旅而言,实在短得可笑。我知道,在理论上,远离熙攘的游客,就意味着要离开巴厘岛南部的两处游客聚集地。一处是库塔海滩(Kuta),在年轻的澳大利亚人当中被视作生活颓废的坎昆(Cancun);至于那些想要寻求伊丽莎白·吉尔伯特(Elizabeth Gilbert)在《一辈子做女孩》(Eat, Pray, Love)中所描绘的巴厘岛风情,但又不想离星巴克(Starbucks)太远的人,必去的地方则是乌布(Ubud)。Instead, I stayed outside Ubud in the village of Keh, which travelers visit for its woodcarving shops but not much else. Mangku himself was a retired woodcarver who became a village priest, which is what “Mangku” means.而我却留在了乌布外侧的克美奴村庄里,游客们常来游览这里的木雕工艺商店,但除此之外也就没什么了。师傅自己就是一位退休的木雕工人,现在则当上了乡村牧师,这也是“师傅”这一称谓的本意所在。His family still runs a shop nearby, Sembahyang Wood Carvers, that ships its intricate, mesmerizing woodwork around the world, with the prices for some of the larger mahogany pieces stretching into tens of thousands of dollars.他的家人仍在附近经营着一家商店“崇拜木雕”(Sembahyang Wood Carvers),将店内那些工艺复杂的精美木雕运往世界各地,其中部分体型较大的红木制品的价格,甚至能够冲到数万美元。The guesthouse is a complex of elegant buildings in traditional Balinese orange brick and adorned with carved sandstone as elegant as the sculptures, with one big difference between the two family businesses: the price. My room cost 125,000 rupiah, or .41 at 13,279 rupiah to the dollar.我所居住的宾馆由几栋造型优雅的建筑构成,它们用传统巴厘岛风格的橘红砖块砌成,并以砂岩雕刻加以装饰,其精美程度与雕像不相上下——这个家族的这两项产业,最大区别就在于价格。我所住的房间费用为12.5万卢比,按1美元兑换13,279卢比折算,约合9.41美元。But I had moved there only after spending a day in Ubud. On my first trip I had to at least see what the hype was about. (I did completely skip Kuta, with no regrets.)但我是先在乌布呆了一天后才到这里来的。既然是我的首次巴厘岛之旅,我好歹也得见识一下,炒作得天花乱坠的到底都是些什么。(我倒确实直接略过了库塔海滩,而且毫无遗憾。)So, arriving after midnight on an indirect flight from Papua, I checked into the very pleasant Odah Ayu Guest House, just off Ubud’s main strip, where a tasteful room cost me 400,000 rupiah.于是,我从巴布亚省(Papua)出发,经过转机,在午夜过后抵达巴厘岛,住进了环境宜人的鸥达阿玉宾馆(Odah Ayu Guest House),就在乌布的主要商业区对面,一间布置雅致的房间价格花了我40万卢比。The next day was packed full of attractions. First, the Puri Lukisan Museum (85,000 rupiah), which offers an introduction to Balinese art on lush grounds. Many paintings depicted scenes from Hindu epics I knew nothing about; I struggled to understand them but still found their elegant floral style absorbing.我在第二天的行程里,排满了各式各样的旅游景点。首先是画宫物馆(Puri Lukisan Museum)(门票售价8.5万卢比),在一片绿意盎然的土地上初步了解了一下巴厘岛的艺术。许多油画作品中所描绘的风景,都出自我一无所知的印度教史诗,我极尽所能去理解当中的内涵,但还是觉得优雅的花草造型最为迷人。I paused at “Just Punishments in hell,” an intricately detailed depiction of “all the different kinds of punishments suffered by the dead that fit the misdeeds of their lives.” Characters were impaled on trees or partly submerged in a pool of flames; others were being pushed into dragons’ mouths or had their genitals set on fire.我在《地狱里的公正处罚》(Just Punishments in hell)前驻足片刻,这幅作品用十分复杂的细节,描绘了“亡者因自身生前罪行所遭受的各种不同类型的相应处罚”。画中的角色有的被钉在树上,有的被半埋在火盆里,还有的正被送往巨龙的口中,或者正被灼烧着他们的生殖器。Then it was on to Ibu Oka, renowned (as in, featured by Anthony Bourdain) for babi guleng, or roast suckling pig, for a 55,000-rupiah plate with meat so moist I’d call it swampy, doused with a peppery sauce and much ballyhooed pork skin that I found a bit too chewy. (I prefer my crackling a bit more, um, crackling.)然后我去了Ibu Oka,这间小店专以babi guleng也就是烤乳猪闻名(美国大厨安东尼·波登(Anthony Bourdain)也对其盛赞有加),一盘售价5.5万卢比,里面的猪肉松软多汁,被我戏称为“沼泽”,浇上胡椒酱,配搭很大程度上宣传过度、在我看来有点太过难嚼的猪肉皮。(我更喜欢更脆一些的肉皮,嗯,脆脆的那种。)Then there was the famed Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, which is on lovely temple grounds and certainly worth the 30,000 rupiah fee, especially if you’ve never before had monkeys eat bananas out of your hands.接着则是大名鼎鼎的圣猴森林避难所(Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary),它坐落在一片风景迷人的神庙之中,3万卢比的票价绝对物有所值,尤其是你从来没有喂过猴子吃你手里的香蕉的话。And I was intrigued by online raves about the Sari Organik Warung Bodag Maliah, depicted as an organic restaurant in a pristine location amid rice fields. It wasn’t quite as pristine as promised: A pedestrian (and motorbike) path ran through it, dotted with souvenir shops and cafes. I’d call them not so much rice fields as “Rice Fields,” framed as a destination for travelers. Few agricultural features I’ve seen have signs directing you toward them.我也对网上众人追捧的餐厅Sari Organik Warung Bodag Maliah兴趣浓厚,据说这家有机餐厅位于稻田中的一处质朴之地。那里其实并没有宣传所说的那么质朴:一条步行道(也是托车道)从中穿过,路边点缀着几家纪念品商店和咖啡馆。要我说,这里的稻田并没有多到可以被称作“稻田”,最多就是一处面向游客的旅游景点罢了。而我很少看到哪些农业特色地点会有明确的标识引导你抵达目的地。I get the appeal, but a week earlier, I had clambered over rice fields on Sulawesi for miles and miles, without a tourist in sight. In Papua, I had hiked hours to villages without seeing a single sign, let alone one directing you to the local sweet potato plantations.我能了解当地所想要传达的诉求,但就在一周前,我刚刚在苏拉威西岛(Sulawesi)上翻过了连绵数英里的稻田,途中可连一名游客都没见着。在巴布亚省,我曾徒步数小时前往不同村庄,路上连一个标志都没看到过,更别说能够引导你前往当地红薯种植园的标志了。Still, the cafe was lovely. My salad was so fresh it tasted as if I were picking it directly from the earth, and with some surprising ingredients, with greens like leaves of both guava and soursop. At 48,000 rupiah, it was a bargain.尽管如此,这里的咖啡馆还是很可爱的。我点的沙拉用料新鲜,口感仿佛刚刚从地里直接采摘回来的一般,里面还用到了一些罕见的食材,例如番石榴叶、红毛榴莲叶等绿叶菜。一盘只需4.8万卢比,实在是物美价廉。As was my day in Ubud, which cost me, astonishingly, something like . But halfway through the day I paused and went to Booking.com, the site I turn to for lodging not listed elsewhere, and found Kudesa. (I didn’t even find it on TripAdvisor.)以上就是我在乌布的一天,总共竟然才只花了我20美元左右。但在那天中午,我一度暂停行程,访问网站Booking.com,试图寻找一间在其他网站上看不到的住宿地点——我就是这样找到的库德萨民宿。(我甚至在TripAdvisor上都没有看到过这家的信息。)During my stay at Odah Ayu, I had met Komang, a member of the family that owns it; as I checked out, he offered to drive me to Kudesa. Thirty minutes later, we passed through a lavish carved gate and entered what looked like a palace or temple: buildings made of that orange brick, their doors shrouded in ornate sandstone carving. Komang was impressed. “This is maybe rich family,” he said.暂住鸥达阿玉期间,我认识了克曼(Komang),他是这家旅馆主人家族的一员;当我退房时,他提出愿意开车送我到库德萨民宿。30分钟后,我们穿过一扇奢华的雕花大门,进入了一处仿若宫殿又像是神庙的地方:橘红色砖块砌成的建筑物,门扇上包着一层华美无比的砂岩雕刻。这让克曼眼界大开。“这户人家大概很有钱,”他说。Perhaps, but one that charges less than for a single. The place had undergone an expansion recently, and now included a handful of fancy-looking rooms along a reverse infinity pool. (That’s my new term for when the infinity edge points in the wrong direction — to the rooms themselves).或许,但是单人间的收费也才不到10美元而已。这里不久前刚刚经过扩修,如今拥有好几间设计精美的客房,沿着一座反向无边缘设计的泳池一路排开。(这是我创造的一个新名词,指称那些池边朝向一反常态,朝着客房一侧的无边缘泳池。)I never got to see my single; the place was nearly empty, so I was upgraded to one of the older doubles (regular price, 180,000 rupiah.) It was a no-nonsense room, with a single sheet and blanket on the bed, an air-conditioner that leaked, and acoustics that allowed me to diagnose sleep apnea in the guest next door. Considering the elegant surroundings (and the dinner they served me by the pool the next night, no charge), it was still a deal.我从头到尾都无缘得见我预订的那间单人间;这间民宿在当时几乎空无一人,于是我直接被升等到了一间年头更久的双人间(常规标价为18万卢比)。这间客房的状态简直写满了故事:床上铺的是单人被和毯子,空调在漏水,隔音效果足以让我诊断出隔壁客人是否患有睡眠呼吸暂停中止症。考虑到优雅别致的周边环境(还有他们次日晚上为我安排的池边晚餐,免费的哟),我觉得还可以接受。That dinner was lovely, a standard plate of rice, meat and spicy homemade sambal, but did not compare to that first night I ate at the market, after parking my bike among dozens of scooters.那顿晚餐还算开心,一客标准份量的米饭、肉和辣口的自制叁巴酱,但是跟我第一天晚上将自行车停在一堆小绵羊里后在集市上吃的那顿,还是没法比。No taxis wait at the market, making it difficult for travelers to get there on their own, and English is a rarity, so those not willing to get on two wheels may wish to consider a tour offered by the Casa Luna cooking school for 400,000 rupiah to tame the chaos and choose the right dishes.集市附近没有候客的出租车,很不方便游客自己前往,会讲英语的人也很少,因此那些无意自己骑车出行的游客,不妨考虑参加烹饪学校Casa Luna举办的美食游,收费40万卢比,帮你抚平所有混乱,选择万无一失的佳肴。I tried a more D.I.Y. solution. On the ride over from Ubud, I asked Komang to list a few Balinese dishes I should try. He gave me three: serombotan, betutu and sate langwan. I jotted them down (having no idea what they were) then asked him how to say “Where is the most delicious _________?” in Indonesian. “Di mana ________ yang enak?” was his suggestion. He also gave me the phrase in Balinese, just in case.我则尝试了一种更为自力更生的办法。在驾车前往乌布的路上,我让克曼为我推荐几道必尝佳肴。他对我说了三道:serombotan、betutu和sate langwan。我用笔记了下来(但对于这些到底是什么东西毫无头绪),然后问他“哪里有最好吃的_________?”用印尼语怎么说。他教导我说:“Di mana ________ yang enak?”他还教了我一句巴厘语,以防我万一有用得着的时候。It worked brilliantly. First, I tried asking for the serombotan, and was pointed to a woman standing at a no-name cart behind an array of plates and bowls loaded with vegetables, bean sprouts, soybeans and more. She piled them all together for me, dashed on a combustible sauce and charged me 5,000 rupiah, a delicious, crunchy, tongue-numbing bargain.这句话真是派上大用场了。我先是试着问了一下serombotan,结果被指向了站在一辆无名推车旁的女人,她置身在一堆碗盘的后面,里面装着蔬菜、豆芽、黄豆还有许多其他的东西。她将所有这些东西堆成一盘,摆在我的面前,浇上一种可燃的酱料,然后收了我5,000卢比,真是一道香脆美味、令人舌头发麻的平民美食。Next, two other women argued before sending me to Warung Carmayani for betutu, slow-roasted poultry (chicken, in this case) with rice, for 22,000 rupiah. Nice, but rather bland.接着,另外两位女士在送我前往Warung Carmayani品尝betutu前争论了一番,这道美食是用家禽(这里用的是鸡)慢慢烤制而成,配上米饭,一客要价2.2万卢比。味道不错,但还是平淡无奇了些。Finally, sate langwan (which turned out to be a fish satay) was sold out. So I compromised at a stand labeled Sate Kambing Juprianto, which specialized in goat satay. A man tossed 10 two-bite sticks of meat over glowing coals and whipped together a rich, surprisingly savory peanut sauce for me on the spot for 20,000 rupiah. I finished it off with some es campur, shaved ice and crazily colorful gelatins, fruit and coconut milk for an additional 6,000 rupiah.最后是sate langwan(似乎就是一种鱼肉沙爹),但是店里卖完了。于是我做出了妥协,改去了一间标着“Sate Kambing Juprianto”,专卖山羊肉沙爹的小摊。一个男人当场将10块两口大小的肉块丢到灼热的木炭上方,然后与一种厚重粘稠但风味极佳的花生酱搅拌在一起,总共收了我2万卢比。最后,我又另外花了6,000卢比,点了一份es campur,这是一种浇有一堆五颜六色的明胶啫哩、水果切块和椰奶的刨冰。On the way back, in Blahbatuh, the village before Keh, I saw a group gathered around the slaughtered pigs and pulled over.返回宾馆的途中,我在克美奴前面的一个村庄布拉巴度(Blahbatuh)看到一群人围着几头宰杀完毕的猪,便将车靠边停了下来。“Where are you from?” boomed a voice. “你是从哪儿来的?”一道嗓门震天响的声音问道。I immediately took a liking to Widi, perhaps in part because he reminded me, in both looks and boisterously welcoming manner, of a friend in New York. He explained that he and a few others had killed two pigs to divide among his extended family, to be used in dishes for Galungan, during which ancestral spirits are believed to visit.我立刻就喜欢上了威迪(Widi),或许有部分原因是因为,无论他的样貌还是他热情待人的方式,都让我想起了我在纽约的一位朋友。他向我解释道,他和其他几个人刚刚宰了两头猪,准备分给他的家族亲戚们,用来制作成菜肴,为当地人民认为会有祖先魂魄来访的加隆安节做准备。He invited me over the next morning for a breakfast of lawar, made of minced pork and vegetables and grated coconut, jumbled together with a spicy sambal.他邀请我在次日清晨与他共进一种名为lawar的早餐,这道菜肴用切碎的猪肉和蔬菜混合椰丝,再拌上一种辣口的叁巴酱制成。I had planned a tour of island temples and other attractions with Mank Jay, a driver and guide who was Mangku’s nephew, so I stopped by early and met Widi’s family, who lived in a traditionally structured family compound.我已经计划好,要与师傅的外甥,司机兼导游曼克·杰(Mank Jay),结伴游览岛上的神庙与其他景点,于是我早早拜访,见到了威迪一家,一个拥有着传统家族结构的大家庭。I had that every Hindu family in Bali had its own temple, or sanggah, but I hadn’t imagined an entire section devoted to shrines representing different manifestations of the gods and the family’s ancestors. Offerings of rice and flowers had been laid in front of each; Widi himself prays there three times a day when he can, two times when he is working as a bus driver.我曾经在书上读到过,巴厘岛上的每一个印度教家庭都拥有自己的神庙,这在当地的语言里叫作sanggah,但是我完全想象不到,他们会开辟出一整块区域来陈设神龛,里面供奉着不同的神灵及家族祖先们的化身。每一尊神像前,都摆放着米饭和鲜花作为祭品;威迪自己在条件允许的情况下,每天会在这里拜上三次,做大巴司机的时候则是一天两次。I was invited back to spend the first day of Galungan with Widi’s family (more on that next week). But that day I still had my tour with Jay, for which he charged 600,000 rupiah, including gas. You may find others willing to do it for 400,000 or 500,000, but it’s worth extra for a guide you like, and I recommend Jay (62-812-3739-8422).我受邀在加隆安节当天再次来访,与威迪全家共度佳节首日(下周再讲述更多详情)。但是那一天我也已经计划好,要与杰一同出游,这趟行程杰总共收我60万卢比,包括汽车的油费。你或许发现其他人通常只愿意出到40万或50万卢比,但能请到自己喜欢的导游,多花点钱也是值得的,在此我要强烈推荐一下杰(62-812-3739-8422)。We motored around to numerous temples and historic spots, the highlight of which was Kerta Gosa, a partly restored complex that had served as a royal home and hall of justice for the Balinese king. Two elegant, typically Balinese buildings remain, one set dramatically in the middle of a pond, as if it were a ship connected to the shore by a sculpture-lined gangplank.我们开着汽车,参观了大量的帝庙与古迹,其中值得一提的是司法亭(Kerta Gosa),这座经过部分修缮的建造原本是一处皇家住宅,也是巴厘岛国王主持公义的审判大厅。这里还保留着两栋造型优雅、典型的巴厘岛风格建筑,一栋引人注目地矗立在池塘中央,有如一艘轮船停泊在此,靠一块边缘雕刻着花纹的跳板,与池岸相连。Inside, the ceilings are painted with mesmerizing depictions of the Hindu epics, most notably the Bhima Swarga story, in which a man enters the underworld to rescue his parents. In a scene now familiar to me, sinners were depicted being punished in hell — in this version, for example, hanging from trees over a pit of fire as rats gnawed on the ropes.建筑内部,天花板上描绘着引人入胜的印度教史诗画卷,最值得注意的是怖军天堂(Bhima Swarga)的故事,讲述了一个男人进入冥界营救自己父母。这个场景我倒有些熟悉,描绘的就是罪人们在地狱中受罚的情景——譬如在这里,就是被绳索吊在树上,下方是一个火坑,上面则有老鼠在啃噬着绳索。“We believe in karma,” Jay said. “When you do a bad thing in your life, and the gods call you, your time is up. And then you see what they’re going to do to you.” “我们相信因果报应。”杰说,“如果你在活着的时候做了坏事,当神灵召唤你的时候,你的大限就到了。然后你就会看到你以前的作为带给你的报应。”I had asked Jay if there was a traditional rural village we could visit to get away from the temples and monuments. So he took me to Penglipuran, a beautiful village with an odd twist.我曾经问过杰,有没有什么传统的乡村村落可以参观,让我们摆脱那些神庙和纪念碑的。于是他带我去了彭力布南(Penglipuran),一处美丽又带着几分古怪的村庄。Along its main street of beautifully laid-out stone, families live in homes that date back centuries to pre-Hindu Bali. One catch: You pay 15,000 rupiah at the ticket booth to enter, where you are handed a scrap of paper with a number, referring to the house you have been assigned to visit.在用石头精心铺就的大路两旁,村民们所居住的房屋可以一直上溯到几个世纪以前,印度教尚未进入巴厘岛的时期。有一点要注意:在售票处付1.5万卢比的入村费,你会拿到一张写有号码的纸片,指定一栋房屋供你游览。The houses and people were lovely, but it felt as if I had entered a human zoo that was an apt metaphor for the island as a whole, particularly the more touristed parts: traditional families living traditional ways, as travelers pay to wander through their lives.这里的房屋和村民都很可爱,但是会给我一种误入了某间人类动物园的感觉,就这座岛而言,这的确是个十分恰当的比喻,尤其是那些十分旅游化的部分——这里的传统家庭沿袭着传统的生活方式,而游客们付费入场四处参观。 /201509/401147

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